Services
I do this as a hobby, not a full time job. So, you will have to email me for prices and timelines. I have been buying, restoring, and selling Pontiac tripowers for many years. My work is guaranteed and I can provide referrences.
Welcome to my shop....I usually don't have this many finished units sitting around. More typically, one set of carbs will be up on the bench, and the finished units sent out. In this case, I was just showing off, I guess. I do have many bare intakes, but not enough carbs to finish them all. I am always buying core carbs.
Restore your tripower - Your tripower giving you fits? You can send it to me for inspection and an estimate on restoration. Picked up a tripower from a friend, at a swap meet, or on eBay? I can give you a close estimate of restoration costs if I can see pics or if I can speak with you while you have the unit there so I can ask you specific questions.
Most of the units I get to restore have many parts missing which I can supply. Often the missing parts include linkage, fuel lines, fittings, choke, and PCV parts.
When I restore a set up, I sandblast the intake, replace the block off plate and gasket, replace any damaged studs, and repaint. I restore the carbs (see next paragraph), install lines, linkage, choke, and PCV parts. I adjust the linkage and preset fuel/air mixture on center carb.
Restore your carbs - I do not use the term "rebuild". These carbs are 40 years old and more. These carbs are usually worn out and/or suffered the abuse of many years of use and many more years of sitting in someones shop, barn, or shed. Add to that the number of "mechanics" that have worked on them in the past. You would not believe what I found done these carbs.
Many of the carbs I get in to restore have recent kits in them. The owner finds this has not solved his/her problems. I often find checkballs reversed and/or stuck in their seats. I sometimes find Chevy floatbowl sections, venturi clusters, or complete Chevy carbs substituted for these unique and special Pontiac tripower carbs. Recently I got a surprise. After installing Helicoils in the threads for both jets, I found, when installing the accel pump, that someone had opened up the well for the pump, taking all the taper out. The pump just fell into the well.
I modify the carbs to your needs. For example, if you are running a 455 and using a tripower that started life on a 389, the idle circuits need to be opened up, and jets need changed. With a radical cam, the power piston may need modification.
I begin by pulling the carbs apart, inspecting each part and taking notes. Then, each part is cleaned, and glass beaded to remove any rust, corrosion, or debris. Carb bodies are dyed or sent out for factory coloring, a Chromate dip process. This involves toxic chemicals which I don't want around my shop!
It is not unusual for the fuel inlet threads to be worn out. They are tapered threads (1/8" NPT) Over the years, they are often turned in "one more turn," so the fitting is oriented properly. Eventually the threads expand and the fitting will not tighten before it bottoms out. In this case, I can install a tapered insert which cannot be detected. I can usually straighten warped airhorns and bent webbing where the air cleaner stud mounts.
I remove the throttle shafts and check them for wear. These are nickel plated brass. When the nickel wears off, the shafts eventually wear, resulting in vacuum leaks. Subsequently, you will have an inconsistent idle. When I find worn shafts, they are replaced. Restoring and sealing the end carb throttlebodies is critical. I use a special sealer that GM used, "back in the 60s"...DAG 213, to assist in forming a seal between the throttleblades and the inside of the bore. The throttleblades (butterflies) in the end carbs are thicker (5/64s) than the center carb(3/64s) to assure a good seal. Over the years, the elements take their toll on both the beveled edges of the throttleblades and the inside bore surfaces. This results in leakage around the throttleblades. Since there are no idle circuits in the end carbs, these are pure vacuum leaks.
Another area that is often overlooked is the accel pump pivot, where the pump lever pivots in the airhorn. I often find significant wear in the center carb in this area. This will cause a small "lag," when accelerating. The pump lever momentarily cocks in the shaft, rather than pushing the pump. This results in a delay in fuel delivery. The remedy is to install a bushing in the airhorn.
Any damaged screws or bolts replaced. New washers are used. Bolts blackened, correct finish using a Phosphate process.
I test the floats and replace them as necessary. I have used new brass floats for years, but they are no longer available. The needle and seats are replaced with a newer, one piece assembly that, I believe, is far superior to the original design. I sell these in the shopping cart attached to this page.
Top quality gaskets and accelerator pumps are used. The accelerator pumps have the Ethanol resistant cups. The springs under the pumps are replaced as well. These aid in closing the carbs and are not included in any carb kit you can purchase locally. I install new torsion springs on the end carbs. Rods and levers are zinc plated as is the choke plate.
Most, probably 90% of th carbs I restore, I color with Eastwood and clear coat. If you have seen this finish applied, and it looked terrible...kinda like orange-gold paint, then it was not applied correctly. Correct application involves glass beading the carbs with new beads until they shine. Then the carbs are cleaned and a light mist of Eastwood is applied, followed by clear coat. The color closely resembles the original finish.
I can have the carb bodies Chromate dipped. This is the correct finish. Toxic chemicals, requiring special EPA oversite, are involved. Consequently, it has become very difficult to find plating companies, and the costs have risen. Cost is a big reason why people select the Eastwood coloring.
Advantages to Chromate dip...more durable if kept from condensation and light. Disadvantages...if you live in an area with below freezing temperatures and an unheated garage, the temperature swings will cause the color from Chromate Dip to disappear in a year or so.
Advantages to Eastwood...withstands temperature swings and resulting condensation, without fading. Cost savings. Disadvantages...will not withstand persistant fuel leaks. Of course, if you smell fuel or have signs of a leak, this should be fixed immediately.
The pictures you find on the page, almost exclusivey, show carbs colored with Eastwood.
To see pictures of tripower units I have restored, go to the section "ID Your Tripower," and look at he pictures of the 64, 65, and 66 units.
